| Contact the
owner, of any horse that matches your criteria.
Ask the seller many good questions as possible to
avoid wasted trips to view horses you won't buy. If the horse has a show
record, heck with any organizations or clubs to see if the owner's claims
record are true. If the horse has ever been security marked, you may be able
to check to see if the horse is stolen. Find out about stolen horse
databases in your area.
Go check the horse at least twice!
On your first visit turn up a little earlier than was scheduled and try to
see the horse handled cold. |
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Assessing a Horse that
you are considering:
- Make a list of everything you want to ask the
owner.
- Confirm everything in the ad with the owner.
- Find out about history and breeding.
- Ask about competition and medical history.
- Ask why the horse is being sold.
- Does the horse have any vices or bad habits.
- The horse’s current management.
- Are there any security markings and registrations?
- Is any tack or equipment included whit the horse?
- Ask how well the horse loads and travels.
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Ask to see him
in different situations depending on what you want to do with him, and want
the owner has claimed the horse can do; i.e. ridden by the owner/a child and
by you, in traffic, in the corral, field, arena, with other horses etc. If
there is any tack or equipment, saddles, bridles (more common, lead ropes
and halters) included in the price, also inspect that.
If you think the horse is worth a second look.
Take an experienced friend or horse professional with you this time. Try to
take someone that knows your level of riding is best, like your instructor.
Be prepared to pay for the time of a trainer or professional. When do you
find a horse you like, go home and sleep it over and think about it. Don't
just buy the horse and give over the cash. On the second visit you can try
negotiating the price as well.
Try to get the horse on a trial basis
Though many people would not like to have their horse out on trial, it
makes the decision making a lot easier. It allows you to try out the horse
for a week or two, have it at your barn, and if you have permission, you
could take it to an event or show and see how it performs. Discuss this with
the owner of the horse, you may be able to come up with a decision. (Most
trials of horses are about a week or two, but some can be up to a month or
even longer (in this time you are probably legally responsible for the
horse, including financially).
If you plan to buy the horse
Tell the owner as soon as you decide that you want to buy. Agree on a
price, subject to vet inspection, and ask to put a deposit down (10% to 20%
of the price should fair) to secure the horse. Have your veterinarian come
out and check the horse before you pay for the horse. This vet inspect can
be expensive, but most insurance companies will demand a certificate anyway.
Find out what the horse has been fed because if you have to change the feed,
you need to do it slowly over a week or two. Talk to your vet. Ask if you
can buy some feed from the current owner if necessary. For your protection,
always insure the horse before you transport him. Make sure you have a safe
and secure area, either a stable or a paddock or corral with friendly horses
or a lot of room. Get any basic equipment for feeding, grooming, traveling
and some blankets if the horse needs them. You may get some of these from
the owner that come with the horse. Find a way to transport your horse to
your barn, if you don’t have a truck and trailer you can hire them with a
driver. Find out the law about transporting horses, and if your drivers
license covers it. If you are in a brand inspection area, you will need to
have that done to legalize the sale and to make a record of transfer on a
State level. Allow the horse to settle in peacefully, and be careful
introducing it to new horses. Try and keep to the horse's old schedule as
closely as possible for the first week.
Negotiating
Don’t choose just any old horse because it’s cheap. Always match the horse
to the rider. A problem or highly trained horse is not for any novice rider
and they will cost more (in terms of money, sanity and possible hospital/vet
bills) in the long run. Less attractive 'regular' horses, horses with
superficial scars or growths, horses of a less popular color and part, cross
or unknown breeds, often go cheaper while not being less suitable, unless
you intend to show. If it is a working or pleasure horse and not exactly
beautiful, well you don't have to ride their head.
Other possible deals
Many owners are more than willing to give you tack and equipment or
transport the horse for you, rather than lower the selling price of the
horse. Buy horses at the end of the competition seasons, in or at the start
of winter, as prices will be lower (with the exception of hunters, which are
best bought in spring or summer). Figure that you will have to pay the
selling price, but ask if they would take 10% or 20% under the asking price
(have a figure in mind here). Remember, even if you already have a saddle,
you'll still need a bridle that fits the horse. Some horses are really fussy
about bits and bridles, so ask first is the safest. If the owner is selling
the horse with tack included, you can always sell the equipment you do not
need, and this way, you are not paying for equipment your not going to use.
Now you're done... or
just getting started?
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